Wednesday, May 18, 2005
Volos, Greece
Please cut and paste Solene's post and stick it in a Google translator. No...
the Italian Job is over, we were chased from Malta through Sicily all the way to Bari by one or other religious feast invariably involvong marching bands, 20 local lads straining the gut carrying a 3m tall solid wood and silver religious effigy, and celebrants who speak too long whilst the aformentioned lads go from one shade of puce to another.
The best and most incredible was in Bari though, where in Saint Nicholas Cathedral (Magnificent Italian/Norman romanesque cathedral, no more baroque please), the venerated bones of Santa Claus himself lie in the crypt. Apparently up until 800 or more years ago he was happily lying in some part of western Turkey until a couple of Local Lads from Bari (no doubt the ancestors of the aformentioned purple coloured bearers) snatched them in a daring grave robbing incident.
So they celebrate it by building this fabulous crypt and wonderful shrine. It was a bit wierd, worshipping stolen goods. Anyway, its a popular church for weddings, and the crypt is dedicated for use by the Russian Orthodox Church, for whom Saint Nicholas (and all Orthodox Christian religions) has a special place in their creed.
The thing was, that there was a wedding going on in the cathedral, while the Lads (in this case the police force and fire brigade etc) were arriving on the piazza outside complete with Saint Nicholas' 3 tonne effigy escorted by the obligitory marching band and pealing bells which were complemented by the sirens of all police cars in the city (which were all in the piazza of course, I actually saw Customs officers on the beat earlier that day). And as if that wasnt enough, there was a full on Russian Orthodox veneration of Nicholas downstairs in the crypt belting out fantastic choral stuff.
Well of course it was all going to come together at some point. The lads danced the statue around the piazza a few times to the band, while the Russians came out of the crypt in full voice, marched straight through the cathedral (ie the wedding) and arrived on the piazza just in time for the police sirens etc.
then Saint Nick went inside, and the wedding was postponed (bride and groom shunted to one side in disbelief, and all in laws and guests as well) as the whole of Bari Vechhia filed in to the magnificent Cathedral, to give praise to Nicholas, the Police and Fire Brigade, and not to mention their Russian friends who had followed Nicholas back into the Cathedral, the primate of the Russian Church blessing everyone at random on the way in followed by the cloaked and bearded priests and younger curates. It was only a matter of time until they broke into another Orthodox song. Bride and Groom, and families and friends, were left shrugging and pouting in that 'you know what can you do' way, as if if was normalish.
I dont know if there were any later recriminations about the Bride being a little too late but it all worked out in the end. the Bride and Groom had their photo taken with a freshly venerated Saint Nicholas, and the marching band had hung around outside on the Piazza to ambush them on the way out with a rendition of 'Volare'. So alls well that ends well.
And we were on our way-


so we have travesed the Adriatic from Bari to Igoumenista, on to Ioannina home of legendary brigand Ali Pasha (more weddings, Greek Style,) on to Kalambaka and Meteora home of the Monasteries on top of those 600m high rocks. I think they used one in one of the addidas/nike/puma football ads recently.
Spectacular places themsleves, but rambling down below them along the myriad of ancient mule tracks is as good. Snakes, tortoises, mental lizards who tend to jump in front of you rather than away... lot of walking in the midday sun as you probably gathered.
The Pindus mountains, Metsovo and the Katara Pass are spectacular, but we didnt manage to get up as far as the Vikos Gorge, north of Ioannina (pronounced Yanana, by the way), next time I hope.
On for a bit of exploration around the Pilio peninsula before bracing ourselves for Delphi. Looking forward to getting to Turkey, and a bit of time gathering ourselves in Athens-
til next time with more -
the Italian Job is over, we were chased from Malta through Sicily all the way to Bari by one or other religious feast invariably involvong marching bands, 20 local lads straining the gut carrying a 3m tall solid wood and silver religious effigy, and celebrants who speak too long whilst the aformentioned lads go from one shade of puce to another.
The best and most incredible was in Bari though, where in Saint Nicholas Cathedral (Magnificent Italian/Norman romanesque cathedral, no more baroque please), the venerated bones of Santa Claus himself lie in the crypt. Apparently up until 800 or more years ago he was happily lying in some part of western Turkey until a couple of Local Lads from Bari (no doubt the ancestors of the aformentioned purple coloured bearers) snatched them in a daring grave robbing incident.
So they celebrate it by building this fabulous crypt and wonderful shrine. It was a bit wierd, worshipping stolen goods. Anyway, its a popular church for weddings, and the crypt is dedicated for use by the Russian Orthodox Church, for whom Saint Nicholas (and all Orthodox Christian religions) has a special place in their creed.
The thing was, that there was a wedding going on in the cathedral, while the Lads (in this case the police force and fire brigade etc) were arriving on the piazza outside complete with Saint Nicholas' 3 tonne effigy escorted by the obligitory marching band and pealing bells which were complemented by the sirens of all police cars in the city (which were all in the piazza of course, I actually saw Customs officers on the beat earlier that day). And as if that wasnt enough, there was a full on Russian Orthodox veneration of Nicholas downstairs in the crypt belting out fantastic choral stuff.
Well of course it was all going to come together at some point. The lads danced the statue around the piazza a few times to the band, while the Russians came out of the crypt in full voice, marched straight through the cathedral (ie the wedding) and arrived on the piazza just in time for the police sirens etc.
then Saint Nick went inside, and the wedding was postponed (bride and groom shunted to one side in disbelief, and all in laws and guests as well) as the whole of Bari Vechhia filed in to the magnificent Cathedral, to give praise to Nicholas, the Police and Fire Brigade, and not to mention their Russian friends who had followed Nicholas back into the Cathedral, the primate of the Russian Church blessing everyone at random on the way in followed by the cloaked and bearded priests and younger curates. It was only a matter of time until they broke into another Orthodox song. Bride and Groom, and families and friends, were left shrugging and pouting in that 'you know what can you do' way, as if if was normalish.
I dont know if there were any later recriminations about the Bride being a little too late but it all worked out in the end. the Bride and Groom had their photo taken with a freshly venerated Saint Nicholas, and the marching band had hung around outside on the Piazza to ambush them on the way out with a rendition of 'Volare'. So alls well that ends well.
And we were on our way-
so we have travesed the Adriatic from Bari to Igoumenista, on to Ioannina home of legendary brigand Ali Pasha (more weddings, Greek Style,) on to Kalambaka and Meteora home of the Monasteries on top of those 600m high rocks. I think they used one in one of the addidas/nike/puma football ads recently.
Spectacular places themsleves, but rambling down below them along the myriad of ancient mule tracks is as good. Snakes, tortoises, mental lizards who tend to jump in front of you rather than away... lot of walking in the midday sun as you probably gathered.
The Pindus mountains, Metsovo and the Katara Pass are spectacular, but we didnt manage to get up as far as the Vikos Gorge, north of Ioannina (pronounced Yanana, by the way), next time I hope.
On for a bit of exploration around the Pilio peninsula before bracing ourselves for Delphi. Looking forward to getting to Turkey, and a bit of time gathering ourselves in Athens-
til next time with more -
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